The Complete Guide to Proper Clothing Fit

## Why Fit Is Everything There's a saying in menswear circles that fit is king, and it applies equally across all fashion. You can spend a fortune on designer labels, but if your clothes don't fit properly, you'll never look your best. Conversely, well-fitted high street pieces can outshine expensive garments that hang incorrectly. Understanding proper fit requires knowing what to look for across different garment types. This knowledge empowers you to shop more effectively, identify alterations that could improve existing pieces, and present yourself with the polish that well-fitted clothes provide. ## Shirts and Blouses ### Shoulder Seams The shoulder seam should sit precisely at your shoulder point—where your arm meets your torso. If the seam drops down your arm, the shirt is too large. If it rides up toward your neck, it's too small. This is the hardest aspect of fit to alter, making it the most important to get right when purchasing. ### Collar Fit With the collar buttoned, you should be able to fit two fingers comfortably between your neck and the fabric. More space indicates a collar that's too loose; less suggests it's too tight. The collar should sit flat against your shirt beneath your jacket, with no gaps or bunching. ### Chest and Torso There should be enough room to move comfortably without excess fabric billowing or straining. When buttoned, you shouldn't see any pulling or "X" patterns forming at the buttons—this indicates the shirt is too tight across the chest. For a more fitted look, there should be minimal extra fabric at the sides when the shirt is tucked. For a relaxed fit, more room is acceptable, but the shirt should never look boxy or tent-like. ### Sleeve Length Shirt sleeves should end at your wrist bone, allowing approximately 1-2cm of cuff to show beneath a jacket sleeve. When your arms hang naturally, the cuff should just graze the top of your hand. ### Overall Length A shirt meant for tucking should be long enough to stay tucked during normal movement but not so long that excess fabric bunches at your waist. Generally, the shirt should fall 2-3 inches below your belt line. Casual shirts meant to be worn untucked should fall between your belt line and the middle of your trouser fly—never longer than your trouser pockets. ## Trousers and Jeans ### Waist Fit Trousers should sit at your natural waist without a belt. You should be able to slide your hand into the waistband, but they shouldn't slip down when you move. If you need a belt to prevent them falling, they're too large. If they create muffin-top bulges, they're too tight. ### Rise The rise—the measurement from waistband to crotch—should position the crotch seam at your actual crotch. Low-rise styles sit below the waist, while high-rise styles sit at or above the natural waist. There shouldn't be excess fabric bunching at the crotch, nor should the fabric pull tight across this area. ### Seat and Thigh Trousers should follow the contour of your body without pulling across the thighs or bunching at the seat. When standing relaxed, there shouldn't be horizontal creases indicating the fabric is too tight. There should be enough room to sit comfortably. If sitting causes significant pulling or discomfort, the seat is too tight. ### Leg and Hem Modern trouser styles typically feature a tapered leg that narrows toward the ankle. The hem should hit at or just above the shoe, creating a slight break (a small fold where the trouser meets the shoe) or no break at all for contemporary looks. For jeans, the style can vary from slim to relaxed, but the same basic principles apply: no excess billowing, no extreme tightness, and appropriate length. ## Jackets and Blazers ### Shoulders As with shirts, the shoulder seam should align with your natural shoulder point. Too wide makes you look diminished within the jacket; too narrow restricts movement and creates an awkward silhouette. ### Collar The jacket collar should rest smoothly against your shirt collar with no gaps. If you see your shirt collar poking above the jacket collar at the back, the jacket needs adjustment. ### Length A well-fitted jacket should cover your seat and end at approximately mid-crotch when your arms hang naturally. A quick test: with your arms at your sides, you should be able to curl your fingers under the jacket hem. ### Sleeve Length Jacket sleeves should end where your wrist meets your hand, showing approximately 1-2cm of shirt cuff. This detail separates polished dressing from the ordinary. ### Chest and Button Stance When buttoned (middle button on a two-button jacket, middle button on a three-button), the lapels should lie flat without pulling. You should be able to slip a fist inside the buttoned jacket, but not much more. Look for a clean "X" where the button pulls the fabric—slight tension is normal, but pronounced pulling indicates the jacket is too tight. ### Back Fit The back should lie smoothly without horizontal creases (too tight) or vertical waves of excess fabric (too large). There's an art to achieving a clean back, and this is often where off-the-rack jackets require tailoring. ## Knitwear ### Shoulders and Chest Like other tops, the shoulder seam should align with your natural shoulder. Knitwear has more stretch than woven fabrics, but this doesn't mean shoulders can be significantly off. The chest should have enough room for comfortable layering underneath without excess bulk. ### Length Jumpers should cover your waistband and extend a few inches below, but shouldn't bunch excessively when tucked in or worn with a jacket. Cardigans can be slightly longer. ### Sleeves Knitwear sleeves typically sit at the wrist bone. Unlike dress shirts, there's no cuff to show beneath, so length can be slightly longer without issue. ## The Role of Tailoring Even the best off-the-rack clothes rarely fit perfectly. Bodies are individual, while clothing is made to standardised patterns. This is where tailoring becomes invaluable. Common alterations that are straightforward and relatively inexpensive: - Hemming trousers and jeans - Tapering trouser legs - Taking in shirt sides - Shortening sleeves (simpler for shirts than jackets) - Adjusting waistbands Alterations that are possible but more complex: - Adjusting jacket shoulders (expensive, sometimes not worthwhile) - Altering chest measurements significantly - Changing fundamental garment structures When shopping, prioritise getting shoulders and length right, as these are the most difficult and expensive aspects to alter. Most other fit issues can be addressed by a competent tailor. ## Practical Shopping Tips Bring the clothes you'll wear: If buying a blazer, wear the shirts you'll pair it with. Trying on a jacket over a thick jumper when you'll usually wear it over thin knitwear gives a false impression. Move naturally: Don't just stand still in the mirror. Sit down, raise your arms, reach forward. Clothes should accommodate natural movement without restriction or distortion. Check from all angles: Most fitting rooms have mirrors that show your back. Use them. Problems often hide behind you. Take photos: Your impression in the moment can differ from reality. Photos provide an objective record and allow comparison between options. When in doubt, go smaller: It's usually easier (and cheaper) to let out than to take in, but only marginally. Don't buy significantly wrong sizes hoping for alterations. ## Conclusion Proper fit is the foundation of dressing well. It costs nothing extra to choose the right size and can transform ordinary clothes into polished outfits. Learn what good fit looks like on your body, and you'll make better decisions whether shopping the high street or investing in premium pieces.